As the clich? goes, change is the only constant. There are two kinds of change. One happens somewhat imperceptibly, as if it?s part of mankind?s evolutionary process, for example, technological advancement. This involves intellectual endeavours and their continuation. The other takes place by virtue of conscious, man-made efforts which sometimes happens without rational approach to life. This may or may not have positive connotations. Karachi?s disfigured colonial buildings fall in the latter category.
It is tough to determine what role (or to what extent) the British had in developing the Malir region. The railway stations here suggest they had a fair bit to do with it. Unlike the other old Karachi precincts, especially Saddar, Malir does not have many remnants of colonial architecture. The ones that remain are in a condition which can hardly be celebrated. Well, that?s pretty much the case with a majority of pre-independence buildings in the city. In order to observe that experiencing a ride down the not-so-smooth National Highway is mandatory.
Hit Sharea Faisal and move towards the airport. The road that leads to Jinnah Terminal is relatively well carpeted. Once you go past the airport the road will become bumpy and you will feel as if you are on a camel?s back despite being in a car [or on a motorcycle, in this writer?s case]. Ignore it. Make sure your eyes are wide open and keep looking left (it?s no good looking right anyway). After a 10-minute drive you will notice a building made of stone. The man who runs the medical store on its ground floor will tell you it is called Mubarak Manzil. He might also get suspicious if you ask him about the structure because it seems no one has ever come to him to inquire about that.
Mubarak Manzil is not a big building. The extensions on its right and at its back suggest the structure has undergone alterations as it suited those who live here. The condition of the roof indicates it has not been touched for a very long time. It is not a very ornate piece of architecture therefore a decent restoration effort can turn things around for it.
A little ahead, where a variety of flower vendors do business, is a reasonably maintained work of stonemasonry. You will be told it is someone?s residence, so just let it be. It is the area behind that residence which is quite a depressing sight. An almost open-air primary school has a broken boundary wall. The stones in the wall reveal it is an oldie, but bricks have been used in the construction of the rest of the institution. The narrow lane leading into the muhalla too has some demolished stone walls.
Get back to the highway. A few yards ahead you can spot another building. Architecturally, it is not as old as some of the structures in Malir. And its name: Saleh Building. Perhaps erected in the 1940s (or a little before that) it has projected balconies which is unlike any other structure in this zone. Saleh Building needs cleaning, scrubbing and refurbishing.
Now comes the sad part of the journey. A little ahead of Saleh Building the fa?ade of rather spacious and striking building will catch your eye. It is distinctly colonial and has more decorative features than all the other structures mentioned above. To the right of the rather roomy arched entrance, a commemorative plaque gives away its history. It reads: ?This sanatorium is built in the memory of Thkar Lakhmidass and Shivji Kanji Pragji Somaya by Dedhar Pragji 10-12-1914.?
The building is a visual treat. But the mandir behind it, which must have been a part of the compound, cuts a sorry picture. You can only see it from afar and cannot have a closer look of it because the temple?s entrance has been locked for the past many years. Reason? In 1992 when Babri Masjid in India was desecrated, many temples in Pakistan were vandalized and destroyed in violent reaction. Malir Mandir was one of them. Even from a distance you can see that the structure is damaged.
Architect Arif Hasan says: ?Malir was a village, an extensive agriculture land. To date a big part of it is agricultural. Hindu and Muslim communities used to live in Malir. There were a lot of stone made buildings in the area. This was also the place many would visit for the weekend. I remember Grand Hotel which was surrounded by parks and had a swimming pool. People would spend time at the hotel on holidays. Then the city expanded and the agricultural land disappeared. Buildings were demolished to make way for flats. The thing is that those who came to this part of the city and settled here did not have any affection or fondness for its social environment.?
?Another reason is that after partition there was a race for property ownership causing loot and plunder. In such a situation the aesthetic value of things diminishes. As far as the mandir is concerned, it?s made of Gizri stone. It had elaborately carved icons.?
The mandir today looks desolate, which is why this write-up should not end. So let?s suspend it by adding another quote, ?How much more grievous are the consequences of anger than the causes of it.?
mohammad.salman@dawn.com
