IT has a clock tower which sometimes loses badly in the race against time. Occasionally it gives a triumphant look when someone on the exceedingly busy Bunder Road (M.A. Jinnah Road) looks up inadvertently and spots the clock that?s as timeless as the ?sand in an hourglass?. It may not be working? rest assured it’s a chronometer of sorts. It takes you to an era when life was valued; when art had a role in every aspect of development, including architecture; when stone wasn?t just meant to hurt opponents with. And it brings you back to the period in which humans and vehicles seem to have the same temper.
Lakshmi building stands out at one corner of Bunder Road like King Lear in that terrible storm without his kingdom. It may have lost its sense but hasn?t lost its shape, and is a delight to look at.There are no alarming signs of chipping and cracking (perhaps this writer wasn?t able to spot any of that); however, the shades of black on its tough-as-nails pinkish exterior mar the building?s charm to a great extent. It is not a classically built structure; it is markedly different from the usual colonial, bossed-stone type of architecture. Nonetheless, it?s one heck of a building! Bunder Road is a pretty extensive thoroughfare. Despite that this particular part is perhaps the most visited area (Lightouse comes pretty close, though), it?s seldom a go-to place for lovers of vin tage architecture and history. There are multiple reasons for it. According to a shopkeeper, the street at whose one end Lakshmi building makes its presence felt is called Chhangla Street and is a bustling market for a number of items.
(Not sure if it?s Chhangla Street.) That?s not it. Come back to Bunder Road and move some 50 yards ahead and witness something quite astonishing opposite the Kharadar police station: the old and mag nificent structure of the State Bank of Pakistan.
The State Bank building is not in a state which can be readily applauded. In terms of maintenance it?s not a patch on the other SBP edifice on McLeod Road (I.I. Chundrigar Road). Yet, when you go near it, you can easily make out the kind of thoughtful work that the stonemasons in colonial times put into it. Strangely, nowadays its marked feature are the vendors who have set out their stalls outside the building where they sell Photos by Fahim Siddiqi / White fresh currency notes in exchange for the torn and soiled ones (and some such stuff), provided you do have a bundle of them in your pocket. If you don?t, they won?t even look at you. Now move back to the street which a shopkeeper claims is called Chhangla. The short stretch has at least a half a dozen vintage British-era buildings with lovely decorative charac teristics, most of which are very much intact. It?s a pity that not many people come here to marvel at these majestic pieces.They?ve been overpowered by the frenetic activities pertaining to a variety of markets, including those selling jew els and precious stones.
Ismailji Alibhai building is a breath taking work of architecture. For some unexplainable reason apart from stone, the building seems to have also been con structed with the help of red bricks. The emphasis is on the word ?seems? because that portion could be a later appendage to the structure or a mere design on the fa?ade. Whatever maybe the case, it?s simply splendid.
No less amazing is Shamsi building. People associated with this beauty will tell you that Shams is the name that the building has always been known as. You have no option but to nod your head in agreement. It is a magnificent example of how ignorance, if not neglect, can shrivel the most breathtaking of living beings. Yes, stone is porous, they say.
Architect Arif Hasan says: ?The State Bank building was constructed in 1868. Gizri stone is used in its construction. It has classical elements with round arches. The upper floor has bigger windows while the windows on the third floor are smaller. It is indicative of the classical revival that took place in the 19th century.
Lakshmi building was built in 1924. It borrows heavily from the architecture of the skyscrapers of Chicago and New York. I think it is well-occupied and wellused and I don?t think it is in danger of disintegration. The SBP one is already on the heritage list so they can?t pull it down. These buildings cannot be preserved unless environmental degradation on Bunder Road is not handled properly. And that will happen with an effective mass transit system for the area ? which is the key to conserving the old city.? Lakshmi in Hindu mythology is the goddess of wealth. Bank is a place where you put your money for safety purposes. Jewellery can?t be bought without the money. All are related. In the context of the buildings mentioned above, all are unrelated.
mohammad.salman@dawn.com
